Ted's Teddy Talk

BABY BEAR

2011-04-26T04:22:00.000-07:00

BABY BEAR is the newest subject of my online bear-making class at EbearZ University. Last semester I taught a class featuring TOOTS - a bear with attitude. The BABY BEAR class started yesterday and I'm looking forward to seeing my students translate the patterns into their own special bear.

COMMISSIONED BEARS

2010-11-10T19:19:00.000-08:00

Here are two bears that were commissioned by MY FRIENDS & ME -- a beautiful teddy bear shop in Leesburg, Virginia.

The champagne mohair bear in the pink pearl-studded gown is named ROXANNE.

The gold mohair bear in the brocade gown is named ALEXANDRA.

SAY HELLO TO FIONA

2010-10-31T17:22:00.000-07:00

I recently taught a bear making class online at EbearZ University. The bear the students made was based on my earlier bear named TOOTS who poses with her paws on her hips. The class offered alternate arm designs and FIONA is based on that variation.

TOOTS BEARMAKING CLASS

2010-09-25T06:57:00.000-07:00

I am delighted to announce that I am now teaching a bearmaking class at EbearZ University online. In this class students will learn to make TOOTS -- a bear with attitude. Classes begin soon but there is still time to sign up.

http://www.ebearz.com/

FINISHING SNAPPY

2010-03-25T13:51:00.001-07:00

The next step in finishing your SNAPPY BUNNY is to make the head. First make sure that you lay out the pattern on the fur with the arrow pointing down -- indicating the fur direction.

TRACE THE PATTERN
You will need to trace a left and right of each head piece. Begin by cutting out the head patterns on the outer outline which includes the seam allowance. This is called the cutting line. Next trace that pattern, and the ear pattern, onto the back of the fur. You should have already traced one ear when you made the body. Just trace another ear onto the other piece left over from when your cut out the body parts. With small head pieces you might want to cut the head patterns down to the sewing line (after tracing the cutting line) and trace the sewing line on to the fabric.

CUT THE PIECES OUT
Carefully cut the head and ear pieces out. Be sure to only cut the backing and not the fur.

PIN HEAD PIECES
The next step is to pin the front and back head pieces together so that you have two profiles. Be sure to trim back the seam allowance to about 1/8 inch after you sew the head together. Sew the ear pieces to the pink felt piece and trim the seam allowance.

SEW PROFILES TOGETHER
Pin the two profiles together and sew them.

TRIM SEAM ALLOWANCE
Then trim the seam allowance to about 1/8 inch.

TURN OUT THE PIECES
You might want to read the directions for turning out the pieces in the BEAR instructions.

STUFFING THE HEAD
Read the directions for stuffing in the BEAR section. After you have stuffed the head firmly you will need to close the neck opening. (A) Take a length of thread and create a very fat knot on the end. Insert the needle into the neck seam allowance from the inside to the outside so that the fat knot is inside the neck. (B) Next sew around the neck opening using a running stitch. Pull the thread tight until the opening is closed. NOTE: Be sure to tuck the raw edges of the neck fabric inside the head so that the neck opening is tightly closed with no edges sticking out. This is important because the neck snap with have to be sewn over it. (C) Now pin the ears into position.If you first stick a pin into the center seam it helps to judge the position of the ears on either side of the pin. (D) Without cutting the thread that was used to close the neck you can continue to sew the ears on. Begin each ear by first sewing one edge, then the other and finally the center. After you sew both ears in place you are ready to make the face.

CREATING THE BUNNY FACE
Carefully remove the two black beads and thread them as shown and tie the threads together with one slip tie. No need to knot it but this will keep the bead from slipping off the thread.

(A) Next pin the nose and cheek pom-poms in place. (B) You can either sew them or glue them in position. Refer to the BEAR directions for placing and sewing the eyes in the head

CREATING THE JOINTS
Refer to the BEAR instructions for directions to position and sew the snap joints. Also read the directions for creating the head position.

FINISHING BUNNY
After you have finished everything, and BUNNY is all put together, there is one final thing to do --give BUNNYy a tail. To determine the right position for the tail just sit bunny down and pin the tail in place. It will work best doing it this way so the BUNNY isn't sitting on the tail

HERE'S BUNNY
I hope you had fun creating BUNNY.

REMEMBER THIS:A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com

WELCOME TO SNAPPY BUNNY 101

2010-03-24T19:01:00.000-07:00

Welcome to our SNAPPY BUNNY class. The kit contains everything you need to make a bunny except stuffing. Many of the instructions for making a bunny are the same as for making a bear so you will need to read those instructions to get a complete overview of the project.
The kit should contain the following. One piece of fur for the body and one piece for the head. One piece of pink felt for the ears. Five snap sets for joints. Two black beads for eyes. Tan carpet thread to string eyes and ladder-stitch openings. Four pom-poms - one pink for the nose, one large white one for the tail, and two white medium size for the cheeks. And a pattern sheet. Check your kit to be sure everything is included and be careful not to lose the black beads when you remove them from the card.

CUTTING FUR FABRIC

If you have never worked with fur fabric, either Mohair or synthetic, you need to learn how to cut the fabric correctly. Basically, it is important to only cut the backing -- not the fur itself. Simply insert your scissors carefully under the fur and cut just the backing. When you finish cutting you can pull the pieces apart and you should be able the see bits of fur showing below the cutting line.

CUT THE BODY PIECES apart by cutting on the center line.

LAYING OUT THE BODY PATTERN
In the illustration above you see how the pieces should fit together in the layout for the body. The seam allowance is 1/4 inch on your pattern sheet but you will not need that much in the final version. This illustration shows how to place everything so it will fit.

LAYING OUT THE BODY SEWING PATTERN
Now you will see in the above illustration how the sewing pattern looks. The top part is the opening for stuffing. The RED ARROWS indicate your start and finish sewing points. BE SURE to backstitch the start and finish points to secure your seam.

TRACE THE SEWING PATTERN ONTO THE FUR
Use a permanent fine tip marker to trace out the pieces. NOTE that the ear layout includes the seam allowance. That is because we are not sewing the ear now.

PIN THE BODY PIECES TOGETHER
It is very important to make certain that the two fur pieces fit together precisely. NOTE that the correct fur direction is indicated by the arrow in the lower right-hand corner as you look at the pieces. Pin the two pieces together fur to fur facing inward. Sometimes I baste the pieces together to be certain I don't get any slipping.

SEW THE ARMS FIRST
This technique is a quick and easy way to sew the body parts. You sew the two sides together and then cut everything apart afterwards. Begin by sewing the arms on either side to be sure nothing slips. Keep the two pieces flattened together as you sew the lines.

SEW THE LEGS AND BODY
After you sew the arms you can sew the legs next and finally the body. DO NOT sew the ear. Trim all your thread end ends.

CUT OUT THE PIECES
Since you have only traced the pattern on one side of the fabric it is best to begin the cutting by tightly holding the top opening curve edge together and begin by cutting that. Then, cutting only the backing, cut each side of the pieces separately. Remember to only cut the backing. You only need about 1/8 inch seam allowance on a bunny this small.

Because there is a slight difference in the way the bunny pattern is worked out there are specific instructions for it. You can find instructions for turning the parts and for stuffing and finishing them in the bear making instructions. You will also find instructions for stuffing and for jointing your bunny.

REMEMBER THIS:A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com

HERE'S SNAPPY BUNNY

2010-02-07T06:44:00.000-08:00

Just in time for Easter -- introducing SNAPPY BUNNY!

Last year the Sasha group had lots of fun making a SNAPPY BEAR for their Sasha dolls. This year I thought it might be fun to make a bunny.
Snappy Bunny is 6 inches tall from the top of her head to the bottom of her feet. Her joints are made from industrial snaps. The kit includes everything you need to make a bunny except the stuffing which is available at most craft shops.
The Snappy Bunny kit is $15.00 with free USA shipping. International buyers add $2 for shipping.

I hope you will all join me making this whimsical little bunny in time for Easter hippity-hop.

You can send payment by PayPal using my PayPal e-mail address tedmenten@aol.com

SNAPPY HEAD ATTITUDE

2009-06-25T08:41:00.000-07:00

There are lots of tricks in bearmaking. All are fun and usually easy to do. One way to give you bear attitude is to position his head at various angles.
First you must sew the male part of the snap to the center of the bottom of his head. This is where your neck gathering comes together.
Now for a bit of fun. You will note that the top of his body is basically a curve. You can create various attitudes by the placement of the female snap position. It you place it at the top of the curve the head will look straight ahead. If you place it slightly forward on the curve his head will tilt down (see illustration and photo) and, if you place the snap slightly back on the curve his head will tilt up.
His personality will be expressed in one of these positions.

REMEMBER THIS:
A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

JOINTING SNAPPY'S BODY

2009-06-25T08:38:00.000-07:00

First sew a male snap near the top inside of the arms and legs. Be sure to make a left and right of the legs and arms.
Now for a trick.
Insert a straight pin through the center of the snap and pin the arm to the body where you think it looks best. Try not to give him hunched shoulders. Next, carefully mark the place where the pin entered the body and mark it with another pin. Do this for the rest of the arms and legs. This will allow you to check the position of all of the arms and legs to be certain they are even.
Finally, sew the female snaps in the positions you have marked. Assemble SNAPPY.

And now SNAPPY is finished and needs a hug and a bow.

REMEMBER THIS:
A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

SNAPPY GETS A TRIM

2009-06-22T11:16:00.000-07:00

One of my favorite things about making a bear is the final trim of the fur. On larger bears it can be quite an art. One SNAPPY it is simply a matter of trimming back a few of the hairs to make his face more visible and his ears more apparent. Just be very careful doing this because it won't grow back.

REMEMBER THIS:
A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

SNAPPY GETS HIS EYES

2009-06-22T11:13:00.000-07:00

Look at the illustration (see A) NOTE: The new eyes are beads that can be threaded (see BUNNY). Take a length of the tan carpet thread and make a knotted loop of thread through the wire loop (see B) then gently pinch the wire loop together to create a single thickness of wire. Now you can insert your threaded needle into the head where you had marked the eye position (see C and D) and push through to the far side of the center seam just under the chin near the base. (see D, E, and F) Repeat this with the other eye. Finish off the eyes by pulling the eye threads tightly, create a knot, and pull the thread "tails" back inside the head and trim off the ends.

REMEMBER THIS:
A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

SNAPPY GETS A NOSE AND MOUTH

2009-06-22T11:10:00.000-07:00

Giving SNAPPY a face is the fun part of making any bear. It is also the most creative and the most complex -- especially on such a small bear.
Look carefully at the photographs and the illustrations. You will want to enlarge them to see the details.
First, I will give you an overview of the process. The typical Teddy Bear has a sewn-in center section called a gusset which creates the bear's forehead and the bridge of his nose. SNAPPY is a center seam bear so we must "create" his forehead and the bridge of his nose. Then, we can embroider his nose and mouth.
Looking first at the photographs I will describe what is important to look for.
A and B show the SNAPPY head front and side view after being stuffed and the seams combed out and with the neck opening sewn closed. C shows the head with three pins put in place for the eyes and the tip of his nose. A piece of thread has been looped around the pins to create a pattern for the bridge of his nose. D shows how the fur has been trimmed down to make the bridge of the nose. Now look at the black and white drawing -- #1 is a drawing of this process.
Next you may want to tape down the fur to keep it out of your way when embroidering the nose. (see #2) I usually draw a small version of the nose with a pen or pencil (see F)
Thread the brown embroidery yarn on a thin needle. Put the tip of the needle at the base of the nose tip (see G and #3) pushing it up through the nose and coming out on the top left-hand side of the nose. Be sure to leave at least 4 inches of yarn hanging out of the tip of the nose (see #4) Bring the tip of the needle over to the opposite side of the nose and insert it into the nose -- push through until the tip emerges on the far side just under the first stitch (see #5) Continue this process in descending rows with each row being narrower than the previous one. (see #6) You may want to "outline" the nose by bringing your yarn around the shape of the nose. To do this you simply return the needle to the first position (see #3) bringing the yarn out at the same point that you started at. Then bring the yarn down along the side of the nose, go UNDER the loose piece of yarn at the nose tip, and insert the tip of your needle into the opposite top edge of the nose -- completing the nose outline. Do not push the needle into the nose too deeply yet.
Now for the tricky part. Take the loose piece of yarn from the nose tip and thread it on a needle. This thread will be used to define the center of the bear's upper lip. It should not be too long -- just enough to define it. Insert the needle and push it through to the base of the back of the neck. Do not pull it completely through the head yet.
Look carefully at illustrations 7, 8, and 9. Pins indicate the position of the upper lip and the inverted V shape of the mouth. Take the needle and thread you used to create the nose and push it through to the far side of the bottom edge of the mouth. Pull it through and then go UNDER the loop for the upper lip (see #9) and complete the mouth by inserting the needle into the other side of the mouth -- coming out again at the base of the back of the neck. You can now secure your threads with a tiny knot and trim off the excess "tail" of yarn.
This is a very simplified version of this process. In my book, THE TEDDY BEAR STUDIO, I explain this process over several pages. If you need more detailed instructions please send me an e-mail requesting the pages to download. Send request to SashaStreetNYC@aol.com

REMEMBER THIS:
A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

STUFFING SNAPPY

2009-06-18T07:42:00.000-07:00

Stuffing a bear is not as easy as it looks -- especially if it is as small as SNAPPY. Let's begin with the first problem -- turning out the sewn pieces. There are a few tricks that can help with this.
FIRST, make sure all of your pieces are completely sewn and the seam allowance trimmed back to about 1/8 inch. NOTE: one exception to the 1/8 seam allowance is the neck opening of the head. You should cut the fur just below the pattern line as the pattern is designed to allow just enough material in the "neck" for gathering to close.
One easy way to turn out the arms and legs is the grip the tip of the "paw" and the "toe" with a pair of pointed pliers. Then gently ease the piece down over the pliers. DO NOT completely turn out the arm and leg but leave a sort of cuff at the top. This will make stuffing easier. Then turn out the head and body using the pliers when possible. This can be frustrating because the pieces are all so small.
After you have finished turning out the pieces you are ready to stuff your bear. You might notice that when you open a box or bag of Poly-Fil that it seems to explode into double its size. That is because it has had all the air pushed out during packing. When you are stuffing your bear you will be pushing the air out again so that your SNAPPY has a firm feel after being stuffed.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When you stuff it is important to support the piece in the palm of your hand so that you do not push through the seams. Never force the stuffing -- just keep tapping it down as you go -- pushing out the air layer by layer. It is very important that you stuff the head as firmly as possible -- especially the nose because it will make embroidering the nose easier. A good trick to getting the nose harder is to keep pushing in more stuffing along the bottom seam line. Again, do not force anything -- just keep adding bits of stuffing and pushing out the air.
When you have completed stuffing all the arms, legs, and body you can close their openings with the ladder stitch. Use the tan carpet thread included in your kit.
The head is closed using a "running stitch" along the bottom edge of the neck. This will gather the neck closed. Be certain that the head is firmly stuffed and the gathered neck completes the roundness of the head.
TIPS: Many bearmakers use FRAY-CHECK to secure all of their fabric edges to prevent fraying. Some even use glue to secure the edges. I prefer FRAY-CHECK.
I always trim away the fur on the "neck" section of the head (see illustration) which makes it easier to gather and will make it smoother to sewn on the snap.
I use a screw driver to stuff my pieces but I always tape the tip to prevent the hard edges from tearing the fabric.

REMEMBER THIS:
A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

HOMEWORK - THE LADDER STITCH

2009-06-17T05:47:00.001-07:00

The ladder stitch is an important stitch in bearmaking and also the most difficult to learn and master. I suggest that you practice on scraps of fabric before you try it on your bear. This is your basic closing stitch and it is used to close the tops of the arms and legs as well as the back of the body.
Begin by taking a long piece of carpet or upholstery thread and making a large knot at the end. Poke the needle through from the wrong side to the right (fur) side at the corner of one side of the opening you want to close. Now, working from side to side, keep thinking in-out, cross over, in-out, cross over. (see illustration) Your stitches should be about 1/8 inch long with the same amount of space between the stitches. You can tighten your stitches as you sew along the opening. You are actually sewing in the fold of the fabric. It helps if you cut away the fur from the seam allowance before you start sewing. Make sure the seam allowance folds under and disappears inside behind the closing. When you have finished the stitches you can pull the thread tight and create a locking stitch at the end of the sewn line. Finally, bury the tail of your thread inside the stuffed part of your bear.

Look at the numbered illustration and begin with your knotted thread inside the stuffed piece and follow the numbers from 1 to 10. Keep in mind the little working thought: in-out, cross over, in-out, cross over...

MAKING SNAPPY'S HEAD - PART ONE

2009-06-15T18:43:00.000-07:00

This pattern is not a traditional style. It includes the ears which are usually sewn on after the head is finished. So, it is important to follow the directions carefully. The directions are for both versions of SNAPPY.
With a head this small it is important to baste the pieces together -- perfectly matching each outline on both sides.
First, cut out the two head paper patterns and trace them onto the square of fur. Make sure the V arrow in the lower right-hand corner is pointing down and fur is showing below the bottom edge. Trace a left and right version of the head. Cut the fur into four pieces.
Next, baste the front and back head pieces together along the ear line. Then machine sew the pieces together. Carefully trim away the seam allowance -- about 1/8 inch.
NOTE: Be sure you have sewn a front and back together so that you have a right and left head profile.

MAKING SNAPPY'S HEAD - PART TWO

2009-06-15T18:40:00.000-07:00

Now it is time to turn out the ear by pushing it from the inside to the outside. Be careful doing this, but make sure you have completely turned out the ear. Carefully comb out the fur from the seam, or pull it out of the seam with a needle.
The photos are hard to see so look carefully at the third row of illustrations. These illustrations are from my book, THE TEDDY BEAR STUDIO, and are for a larger bear so the pieces have been precut along their outline. DO NOT cut the SNAPPY pieces this way -- leave them as shown in the photos and trim later after sewing..
You will see that the fur around the base of the ear has been parted so that the line from the top of the ear to the bottom is clear. I often tape the fur back to keep it out of the way when I sew.
Finally, sew the ear from top (B) to bottom (A) by hand or by machine. This closes the ear against the head.

Now you are ready to sew the two halves (profiles) together. Once again it is important to baste them together so that both sides are perfectly matched. Sew from point (C) to point (D) leaving the bottom of the neck open.
Then trim away the seam allowance about 1/8 inch.

DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

A NOTE ABOUT THREAD COLOR

2009-06-15T08:32:00.000-07:00

I have used black thread to make the images readable. You might want to use tan thread, but either works fine since the stitches will not show after the bear is stuffed.

CUTTING OUT THE PIECES

2009-06-15T08:30:00.001-07:00

Remember the lesson about how to cut out fur. First cut one side at a time -- NEVER cut both together. Begin by cutting the arms, legs, and body parts between the sewn lines. Then you can cut each piece leaving about 1/8 inch "seam allowance" around the edges. NOTE: I usually leave about 1/4 inch seam allowance but the stuffing openings because these will later fold back inside and allow you to sew the closure.
The reason it is important to only cut the fur backing (not the fur) is that when you turn out each piece, and comb it out, you will get uneven fur if you have previously cut it too short.

REMEMBER THIS:
A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

SEWING THE BODY PARTS

2009-06-15T07:49:00.000-07:00

Now you are ready to sew your bear's body parts. I usually begin by sewing one arm in the center section. Then I sew the two end pieces -- the body and one leg. Finally I sew the other arm and leg.
NOTE: It is important to hold down the fabric while sewing. Use a tight, small stitch. BE SURE to back-stitch your beginning and ending stitches.
In the illustrations you can see the back and front of the two fabric strips after they have been sewn together.

REMEMBER THIS:
A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

PREPARING THE FUR FOR SEWING

2009-06-15T07:20:00.001-07:00

Either hand-sewing or machine-sewing works for making a bear this small. I generally use a bit of both -- usually whichever one is easier.
Usually, these body pieces would be cut out before being sewn, but this technique makes everything quicker and easier.
But first you need to pin the two body pieces together. First be sure your fur is facing downward with edges showing below the backing. Next, place one piece on top of the other - FUR FACING FUR.
Begin by pinning the four corners. Then pin the center sections. Finally, pin the center of each of the body elements. This will prevent the fur from slipping when you sew the two pieces together.

REMEMBER THIS:
A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

LAYING OUT THE BODY PATTERNS

2009-06-15T06:21:00.000-07:00

In your ALL FUR "SNAPPY" KIT you will find two pieces of fur. One is oblong and one is square. The square piece will be used to make the head. The oblong version will be used to make the body.

First cut the oblong piece into two strips remembering the cutting trick and only cut the backing.
Next cut out the pattern pieces from the sheet provided. Just cut out the BODY, ARM, and LEG pieces now.
Then use a fine tip permanent marker to trace around the pattern pieces following the layout shown. You will need to make a RIGHT and LEFT of the ARM and LEG. Only make the layout on ONE strip. BE SURE that the fur is showing at the bottom of the piece. NOTE: There is an arrow pointing down in the lower right-hand corner of the fur piece to indicate fur direction.

BE SURE you leave space between your pattern pieces as they are in the illustration.

NOTE: You will see RED ARROWS indicated on the layout. These indicate where to BEGIN and STOP sewing. Always back-stitch your beginning and ending stitches to secure your sewing. The unsewn spaces are the openings for you to stuff your pieces.

REMEMBER THIS:
A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

TEDDY TRICKS - CUTTING THE FUR

2009-06-15T06:13:00.000-07:00

There are many little tricks to making a perfect Teddy Bear. I have been teaching bear making around the world for many years and dozens of Teddy Bear artists have shared their tricks with me. Now I will share them with you.
There are certain basic things you will need to learn, and master, so that your bear will be expertly made.

CUTTING FUR FABRIC
If you have never worked with fur fabric, either Mohair or synthetic, you need to learn how to cut the fabric correctly. Basically, it is important to only cut the backing -- not the fur itself. Simply insert your scissors carefully under the fur and cut just the backing. When you finish cutting you can pull the pieces apart and you should be able the see bits of fur showing below the cutting line.
You will know that you are doing it correctly if there are no "scraps" of fur after you finish.

REMEMBER THIS:
A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

MAKING THE ALL FUR "SNAPPY"

2009-06-15T06:11:00.000-07:00

Welcome to the SNAPPY bear making online class. It is important to read the instructions carefully. Always ask questions before doing anything that is not completely clear. Better safe than sorry. The complete lessons for this SNAPPY will be posted here this week.

REMEMBER THIS:
A blog posts everything in a sequence that is LAST to FIRST so it is always important to read the previous post before starting to work on the present one.
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? Just write to Ted at SashaStreetNYC@aol.com
(click on images to enlarge)

TOOLS TO MAKE SNAPPY

2009-04-06T07:33:00.000-07:00

There are several tools that you will need to make your SNAPPY bear.
Here are suggestions for those that are essential and those that are optional but very helpful.
ESSENTIAL: You will need a pair of very sharp small scissors. You will need pins - I prefer the white glass head type. You will need a small variety of hand-sewing needles including one medium and one small size. A small curved needle is optional. Sewing thread. A pair of small needle-nose pliers. Some form of stuffing tool. A small screw driver, a pencil, a chop stick, or a simple wooden dowel with pointed ends. A good comb and brush. I prefer a metal tooth pet comb. OPTIONAL: Fray-Check to seal raw edges. The ruler is just to show scale. Click on photo to see larger image.

STUFFING FOR SNAPPY

2009-04-06T07:31:00.000-07:00

The best stuffing is POLY-FIL from FAIRFIELD PROCESSING. You can use regular medical cotton but it is more expensive and doesn't pack easily. Here is a link to the FAIRFIELD website where you can find a list of retailers. Be sure you purchase the product shown in the photo. The packaging might be different but this is the right product. http://www.poly-fil.com/consumer.asp

ZAC SAYS "HELLO"

2009-03-28T10:39:00.001-07:00

ZAC SAYS: Hello! My name is ZAC and I am your Teddy Bear host here at TED'S TEDDY TALK. I will be expressing the Teddy Bear point of view while my "boss" will be expressing the human view. I will also tell a few tales and introduce you to many of my Teddy Bear family and friends.
Our first adventure together will be to make a SNAPPY bear to keep your Sasha and Gregor dolls company. Dolls and bears really go hand and paw so every doll should have a Teddy companion.
As humans, your task will be to create a very special, and personal, bear companion for your doll. Together we will explore the basics as well as the various tricks that will make each and every SNAPPY unique.

Welcome.

ZAC